The best Primitivo wines at Ritschard Weine: Everything about Switzerland's favourite from Italy
What does the term Primitivo mean?
Primitivo is one of the most famous and important red wine varieties in Italy. This grape variety has been cultivated for about 250 years, mainly in the sun-drenched vineyards of southern Italy, especially in Puglia. The Primitivo di Manduria has achieved remarkable success, with its growing area covering parts of the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi along the southern coast of the Salento peninsula.
The demanding grape variety presents challenges for the winemaker, as the grapes often ripen unevenly. To ensure the highest quality, Primitivo grapes must be harvested in several rounds. When the work in the vineyard and the careful vinification in the cellar are successfully carried out, wine lovers can enjoy a Primitivo that impresses with its deep ruby red colour, intense bouquet and powerful, full-bodied taste.
History and origin of Primitivo
The name Primitivo probably derives either from the Latin ‘primativus’, meaning ‘the first of its kind’, or from the Italian ‘prima’, meaning ‘first’. The Primitivo grape variety originated in Croatia, near the Hungarian border. It also found distribution in Austria and California, where it is known under the names ‘Zierfandler’ or ‘Crljenak kaštelanski’.
In the past, the so-called Vino del Nonno (grandfather's wine) could be obtained from the respective cooperative. The wine, which was sweet, heavy and inexpensive, was bottled for convenience in a plastic canister that the consumer brought with them. In the meantime, Primitivo has become the most important grape variety in southern Italy.
The true origin
Whether Primitivo, Zinfandel or Crljenak Kaštelanski – in all cases it is the Tribidrag grape variety. This old Croatian variety has attracted a lot of attention over time, whether as Zinfandel in California, as Primitivo in Puglia or in the research of numerous botanists and scientists. The exciting history of this grape variety begins in Italy, or more precisely in Puglia, in the garden of a passionate amateur botanist.
In 1799, during a walk through the local vineyard, Francesco Filippo Indellicati, a priest from the community of Gioia del Colle, discovered an early-maturing vine that stood out clearly from the others. As a keen amateur botanist and agronomist, he documented this discovery in the city archives under the name ‘Primativo’, the first to ripen. The variety quickly spread among the winegrowers of Puglia, and by 1860 the name Primitivo had become established. Since then, Primitivo has developed into one of the most important red grape varieties in Italy and is now highly valued worldwide, particularly in Germany and Switzerland.
Tribidrag
The grape variety we know today primarily as Primitivo was first mentioned under the name Tribidrag. This variety, native to Croatia, has been known by this name since the early 15th century. Interestingly, the term Tribidrag is derived from the Croatian word ‘tribidraga’, which has its origins in Greek and can be translated as ‘early ripening’. This meaning connects the origin of the grape variety in Dalmatia with its later cultivation in Gioia del Colle.
Nowadays, Tribidrag can be found in many parts of the world. The main growing areas continue to be in California and Puglia. Although Primitivo is considered exotic in some countries, the grape variety is still finding its place. In fact, Primitivo vines are cultivated in France, Israel, Croatia, Australia and even Canada and Mexico. It's no wonder that Tribidrag, Primitivo, Zinfandel – or whatever you want to call the grape variety – delights wine lovers worldwide with its rich fruitiness and full flavour.
Characteristics and character of Primitivo
Primitivo wine is full-bodied and has intense aromas of dark forest fruits and spicy notes of cinnamon and black pepper. The best vineyard sites are located in the area around Manduria. The high alcohol content of the wines is due to the fact that the grape produces a lot of sugar. In the glass, the Primitivos are a deep dark red colour and captivate with notes of cinnamon and rum punch as well as fresh fruit aromas. A harmonious acidity, coupled with a fine saltiness and medium tannin content, guarantee incomparable moments of pleasure in a glass.
Rules for the production of Primitivo di Manduria red wines
To vinify a Primitivo di Manduria with DOC status, winemakers must fulfil eight articles from a catalogue of requirements specifically defined for its production.
Article 1 stipulates that the protected designation of origin Primitivo di Manduria applies exclusively to wines that meet all of the following requirements.
Article 2 describes the permitted grape varieties. At least 85% of the grapes must be Primitivo grapes, while the remaining 15% can consist of non-aromatic black grape varieties that are permitted in the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi. These may be used individually or in combination.
Article 3 defines the geographical region of production of Primitivo di Manduria. This area is mainly located in the provinces of Brindisi and Taranto, also known as the heel of Italy.
Article 4 regulates the cultivation, harvesting and maximum yield of 9 tonnes per hectare of the authorised grape varieties. In addition, a minimum alcohol content of 13.00% vol. is set for Primitivo di Manduria, while for the Riserva it must be 13.50% vol.
Article 5 deals with the work in the cellar, the maturing process and marketing. The addition of must and wine is prohibited. The earliest sale of a Primitivo di Manduria DOC may take place from 31 March of the year following the harvest. The Riserva must be aged for 24 months, at least 9 months of which must be in wooden barrels, before it can be sold two years after the harvest.
Article 6 describes the characteristic features of Primitivo di Manduria.
- Colour: an intense red that turns garnet red over time
- Flavour: typical of the region, ranging from dry to sweet
- Aroma: complex and multi-layered
- Alcohol content: at least 13.5% vol.
- Acidity: at least 5 g/l
- Residual sugar: maximum 18 g/l
Primitivo di Manduria Riserva
The characteristics of Primitivo di Manduria Riserva are similar, although the alcohol content must be at least 14% vol.
- Article 7 stipulates that the year of the grape harvest must be indicated on every bottle that meets these standards.
- Finally, Article 8 stipulates that the wine may only be bottled in glass bottles with a nominal volume of up to 15 litres. The bottles used for Primitivo must be sealed with a cork. Only bottles of 0.25 litres are allowed to have a screw cap.
Protected origin – the quality levels of Primitivo
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale: This wine is the first DOCG wine from Puglia and is made from 100% Primitivo grapes. Before vinification, the grapes dry slightly, giving the wine an increased residual sweetness and a deep red colour. It matures until 1 June of the year following the harvest.
Primitivo di Manduria Riserva: With DOC status, this wine is made from at least 85% Primitivo grapes. It is aged for at least two years, including nine months in wooden barrels, which gives it additional complexity.
Primitivo di Manduria: Also with DOC status, this wine consists of at least 85% Primitivo grapes. It must be aged for at least 31 March of the year following the harvest.
Primitivo Salento: This wine is made exclusively from grapes grown in the Salento region, with a focus on Primitivo grapes. It is known for its aromas of blackberry, plum and cherry.
Primitivo di Puglia IGT: made exclusively from grapes grown in the Puglia region, with a predominance of Primitivo grapes. The wine offers delicate notes of blackcurrant, blueberry, leather and aniseed, and is complex and expressive.
Primitivo Doppio Passo: this is purely a brand name and refers to a special process. The wine is a slightly residual sweet red wine with a dense and intense flavour.
Well-known wineries in Puglia
Among the most famous wineries producing outstanding Primitivo is Pendio Antico, known for its powerful, fruity Primitivo, characterised by a special balance of sweetness and spice. Another notable winery is Montedidio, which is appreciated for its elegant Primitivo, which offers a deep ruby colour and complex aromas of ripe berries and spices.
Cantine San Marzano has made a name for itself with its Primitivo di Manduria DOP, a wine that impresses with its intense fruit flavours and full-bodied taste. Vigneti del Salento is also among the top producers in Puglia, known for wines with a rich structure and fine minerality that perfectly reflect the region's terroir. Femar Vini, the winery behind the Primitivo di Manduria DOP, produces wines that are characterised by exceptional depth and longevity, making them ideal for lovers of powerful reds.
Finally, Poggio Le Volpi is known for its Primitivo Tator Puglia IGP, which delights with an intense bouquet of cherries, plums and delicate spices. These estates represent the best of what Puglia has to offer in terms of Primitivo, and they contribute significantly to the region's international reputation. Each of these estates combines traditional craftsmanship with modern winemaking to create wines that capture the character of Puglia in every glass. The Primitivos of these estates are not only an expression of their grape variety, but also of the passion and dedication with which they are vinified. Puglia has thus established itself as the home of some of the best Primitivo wines in the world.
What foods and occasions does Primitivo go well with?
Primitivo red wine from Puglia is characterised by its juicy berry fruit, soft tannins and moderate acidity, making it a versatile companion for numerous dishes. A Salento Primitivo goes particularly well with pasta and pizza, while a Primitivo di Manduria is ideal with grilled lamb, savoury meat sugo or hearty cabbage dishes.
A sweet Primitivo, such as the Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale, is the perfect choice with cheese, almonds and pastries and can also round off the evening wonderfully as a digestif.
Primitivo is a versatile wine that suits every occasion. As Italy's number one trendy grape variety, it delights almost every wine lover and is therefore perfect for events of all kinds – from garden parties to weddings. But this grape variety also impresses as a soloist across the board.
Primitivo is an excellent choice for barbecues, as it goes well with both sweet and savoury sauces for grilled meat. It also goes well with tomato-based dishes such as pizza, aubergine parmesan and pasta Bolognese.
Zinfandel and Primitivo – a comparison
If you cross half the globe, you will come across a grape variety in California that looks very similar to Primitivo. For a long time, American winemakers believed that this grape variety was native to the United States, although the Vitis vinifera grapevine does not originally come from the New World. Others suspected that a Hungarian immigrant had introduced over 300 different grape varieties to America, possibly including the Primitivo from Italy. The decisive proof was finally provided by the historian Charles Sullivan, who proved that the grape variety originated from the Schönbrunn wine collection.
While Zinfandel was enjoyed in California and Primitivo in Puglia independently of each other, a plant pathologist brought a decisive turning point to the history of both grape varieties in 1967. Austin Goheen, who worked on behalf of the United States Department of Agriculture, came across vines in the vineyards of Puglia that looked strangely familiar to him. He then had a cutting of the Primitivo sent to California, where it was planted next to a Zinfandel vine at the University of California in Davis. After some time and intensive research, Goheen recognised a remarkable similarity in morphology. Wade Wolf, a doctoral student, deepened the investigation, analysed the molecular profile of both vines and finally discovered that they were identical.
It has long been suspected that Primitivo originated in Croatia because the name Zaragese, probably derived from Zagreb, was considered a synonym for the grape variety. The Plavac Mali variety grown in Dalmatia was considered a hot candidate, but was ruled out by an analysis of the isozymes – not before Croatian winemakers had started marketing their wine as Zinfandel, opening a new chapter in the battle over the origin of this grape variety.
After numerous examinations of old Plavac Mali vines, which did not yield a match, the breakthrough came: a vine of the Crljenak Kaštelanski variety from Kaštel Novi, north of Split, fully matched the DNA profile of Zinfandel. This link was confirmed by another vine called Tribidrag, also known as Pribidrag, from the garden of an elderly lady.
Excursus: Zinfandel in the USA
In California, the Zinfandel grape variety is used for both rosé wines, known as White Zinfandel, and red wines.
White Zinfandel is a medium-sweet, quaffable rosé wine made from Zinfandel grapes. There are a number of different methods for producing this style, but the short maceration technique is often used. To create a wine with a typical 8-10% alcohol content and medium sweetness, the fermentation is stopped by removing the yeast before the process is fully complete. White Zinfandel is pink in colour and has simple aromas of red fruits such as strawberries and raspberries. It often tastes very much like a sweet.
California's red Zinfandel wines are produced using classic red winemaking techniques, where the grape juice remains in contact with the skins throughout the entire fermentation. These wines usually mature in oak barrels to soften the tannins and increase the variety of flavours.
A typical red Zinfandel is characterised by pronounced aromas of red and black fruits such as raspberry, blueberry and blackberry, as well as dried fruits such as raisins and prunes. In addition, oak aging contributes notes of vanilla and coffee. This wine is dry, with medium to high acidity and tannin, high alcohol and full body. California has some very old Zinfandel vines that produce a small amount of highly concentrated fruit. The resulting wines can develop tertiary aromas such as earth and meat in the bottle.
Buy and drink Primitivo wines
You can buy Primitivo wines online from Ritschard Weine. This red wine of exceptional quality and very good value for money is particularly popular with wine lovers looking for a robust and complex red wine. The Primitivo, like most other red wines, is stored and served at 16-18°C. The Primitivo grape variety is one of the oldest grape varieties in Europe and has a long history in the wine world.
Frequently asked questions about Primitivo red wine
What kind of wine is Primitivo?
The Primitivo grape variety (also known as Zinfandel) is characterised by its high sugar content, which results in a higher alcohol content in the wine. The variety owes its name to its early ripening, as it is usually the first to be harvested (Italian: primo). The Primitivo di Manduria is particularly successful and enjoys great popularity.
Which is better: Merlot or Primitivo?
The two grape varieties harmonise perfectly: Primitivo gives the wine structure and an intense aroma, while Merlot contributes body, a deep colour and additional elegance and quality. Both benefit optimally from the Apulian sun, which makes the wine intense, dense and aromatic.
What does a Primitivo taste like?
Primitivo wines from Puglia are characterised by their full body and high alcohol content, usually between 13.5 and 15%. They are intensely fruity, with aromas of plums, black cherries and dark berries. Spicy notes such as pepper, cinnamon or cloves also often come to the fore.
Is Primitivo a dry wine?
Although many wine lovers perceive this wine as dry, it actually rarely belongs in the category of dry wines. Rather, it is predominantly classified as semi-dry.
Why is Primitivo so popular?
Primitivo is an extremely popular wine that impresses with its intense and complex aromas, powerful structure and lasting presence on the palate. In shops, Primitivo from Puglia is the best-selling red wine.
What is the difference between Merlot and Primitivo?
The two grape varieties harmonise perfectly: Primitivo provides structure and intense aromas, while Merlot contributes body, a deep colour, additional elegance and quality. Both benefit optimally from the Apulian sun, which gives the wine an intense, dense and aromatic note.